Materials

Four tanneries. One brass foundry. No corners cut.

A leather piece is only as good as the hide it started as. We've spent a decade narrowing down to the suppliers we trust most.

Stacks of vegetable-tanned leather

Our tanneries

Wickett & Craig

Curwensville, Pennsylvania · since 1867

Vegetable-tanned cow shoulders for wallets and small goods.

Hermann Oak

St. Louis, Missouri · since 1881

Heavyweight bridle and harness leather for belts.

Horween

Chicago, Illinois · since 1905

Chromexcel for bags — soft, hot-stuffed, patinas beautifully.

Conceria Walpier

Ponte a Egola, Italy · since 1960s

Buttero for occasional custom commissions.

Hardware

Solid brass. Cast in Connecticut.

All our buckles, rivets, snaps, and clasps are solid brass — never plated. We buy from a small family-run foundry in Waterbury, Connecticut, which has been casting hardware since the 1940s. Brass is heavier than plated steel and it costs more. It also lasts forever and develops its own patina.

Thread

Ritza 25 "Tiger Thread," 0.8mm, waxed.

We stitch with Ritza 25 from Julius Koch in Germany — the same waxed polyester thread used by most traditional saddle makers. It does not rot, it doesn't break in cold weather, and the wax bonds each stitch to the leather over time. We keep cognac, dark brown, natural, and black on the bench.

Want to see the leather in person?

Come by the shop during open hours — we keep samples of every hide on the bench.

Visit the shop